HCCA Forums

Amy, Apologies to you for some of the curmudgeons on this board. I'm sure there will be more than just Joseph. Certainly they are entitled to their opinion, but they don't speak for everyone. I like Danny and the show. I've seen him look at and drive authentic antique cars on Pawn Stars, and he seem...

Ian, I regrettably haven't finished the project. I have towed it to try to start it for some distance however! No leaks as of yet. The seals I used are 21058 Chicago Rawhide. They fit nicely into the same spot the felt seal occupies. I will report back when I get the dang thing going. Thanks, Jeff

I don't know if they made bodies from wood in the earlier days, but from the shape of it, the top brackets, the details, it looks like an Overland body to me. My 14 is metal body over wood frame however. The shape of the back and how it curves in looks exactly like my 14.

There is a grooved area toward the inside ends of the axle that gets clamped down by a grooved "collar" that is held in place by 2 screws. I have always just centered the grooves evenly and it has worked fine. The rear end assembly should be held in place by these collars, and the two "guides" on th...

I have some regular touring fenders that I would part with, but don't know if they are the same as the ones you are looking for.

Well, it looks a lot like the muffler on my 14 Overland 4 cyl 35 hp that works fine. One thing you can do is install an exhaust cutout ahead of the muffler that you can engage on hills. Plus it makes it sound like you are going faster on flat land!

What actually should be used is 300-600w gear lube. I found mine at a local fuel dealer, I think it was Chevron or Texaco, and they are the same company now anyway. Yes, it is incredibly thick. When I used regular 140 it was too light, and makes it's way through the axle seals especially if you over...