HCCA Forums

A little further research shows that Bakelite is still made today. You can check the manufacturers on Thomas Register. I think they also make it in Asia.

https://www.thomasnet.com/products/cust ... 804-1.html

Phil

Here's a discussion on the subject which touts Delrin as a replacement material. You'd need to machine it rather than cast, of course. A CNC machine might do it. My Hupmobile cap is also Bakelite (I think) cast over the brass threaded part. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/184751-bakelite-repacement-mat...

I don't know of any brass-era dealers, but there are a many sources for brass-era cars. Other than the HCCA web page, there is Hemmings.com, eBay, Prewarcar.com, the AACA forum "For Sale" section, the MTFCA Forum Classifieds (for Model T cars). My suggestion is to advertise for your search on Hemmin...

As you've discovered, you'd best post question on the most active forums. The MTFCA Forum is the most responsive I've seen. If you have early Buick questions, you should join the Brass Buicks group on Yahoo:

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/BrassBuicks/info

Phil

A good resource is the Brass Buicks Yahoo group: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/BrassBuicks/info

It's quite active.

Phil

Merci, SteamNut! It is, inded, a Mochet CM125 Luxe... or at least the front half. Made from 1950-54, it used a 125cc Zurcher motorcycle engine. Not exactly "luxe", it lacked certain amenities such as doors. Reverse gear and electric starter were options. It was introduced just after WWII and sold br...

Here is a useful paper on using the various types of "thread locker" (Loctite) products. Of course, they didn't exist in 1910, but they would have been used if they did!

http://wdarc.org/Loctite%20Guide.pdf

Phil

No online version, but perhaps some day. It would be more up-to-date, perhaps.

Phil

Each member gets a copy of the Roster, the 2015/16 being the most recent. You can email one of the club officers to see if they have a copy for you. If you can't get a copy, I can send you information from it.

Phil

The Mini-Ductor, and induction heater, is available from tool dealers and on eBay. Anyone ever try this tool? Here's a video on it:

Here's a recent video that tests various penetrating oils including ATF/Acetone mix, AeroKroil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Royal Purple and WD-40. What's your favorite?

ATF/Acetone mix, AeroKroil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Royal Purple and WD-40


Phil

I got this plaque today. It appears to be enamel on copper. The cars look c1905 and quite detailed, including license plates. Can anyone identify them?

Phil

Interesting footage of New York in 1911. You're sure to notice a lot of interesting scenes... and machinery. Good soundtrack added, also.

Phil

Well, I did learn from Howard Hodson that a belt-operated starter motor only will not work, as it cannot withstand the speed of rotation. A motor-generator, however, is designed to turn quickly (above 12,000 rpm).

Phi

My switch was non-original, but I got a nice repro from someone. Here is a photo of what they look like. This Hupp has a choke knob, but I don;t think that is original. My Metz has an even simpler switch: a brass tab that contacts a bolt on the firewall.

Phil

No, the Hupp has magneto only; no coils. It puts out quite a hot spark, which I noticed when holding it and turning it slightly. It does have an on/off switch on the dash.

Phil

Yes, the Hupp uses a Bosch DU4. It's the non-adjustable timing type.

Phil

My Hupmobile Model 20 has no battery setup; just magneto. My plan is to use a 12v battery and recharge it from outside the car (that is, not use a generator), just for simplicity. I'm hoping to use the starter motor until I can get the car to running on the first or second pull.

Phil

What engine are you trying to start, Al? Is your flywheel in the rear? Mine is a 4-cyl., 16hp engine with front-mounted flywheel (Hupmobile). I have a fairly compact 12v Toyota starter motor I plan to try.

Phil

Why not use a modern starter-generator unit like the Cub Cadet suggested in the HCCA article?

Phil