1910 Overland restoration

Get help and help others restore and enjoy driving/touring in horseless carriages
alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Tue Jan 08, 2019 8:00 am

If you have not, I encourage you to contact Jon (Carb. king). He deals in parts for a wide variety of old and obsolete carburetors. Here is his contact information: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Servic ... pdraft.pdf, phone 573-392-7378. Jon is a nice guy and is very well versed in these old carbs. He has lots of parts/rebuild kits, needle and seats and is a wealth of experience and information at his finger tips. I am sure that you can come up with a very suitable remedy!
Al

Jack
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 1:07 pm

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by Jack » Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:01 am

Morning boys, as Al suggested, I checked with the CarbKing, but he didn't really have any answers other than "put on a REAL carburetor". Not really what I wanted to hear. So, I'm still thinking about that needle and seat. This is going to take some time and effort, but I'll keep you posted on how it goes. Dang! I might have to take Jon's advise and put on a different carb, but I sure don't want to. Thanks guys.

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Fri Jan 11, 2019 10:29 am

Jack, I actually thought you would hear just what he told you he has also told me. I did think he may have suggestions on a replacement seat and needle, however. One thing, however, you are trying to make and keep you car as original as possible. I do think you will be able to locate a seat that is adaptable, for your application. I see no reason that you can not find an upgraded needle that will work for you also, with the Viton tip. I was chewing on your dilemma and thought of at least a partial remedy. If you son is a proficient machinist, have him build you the seat ( a couple while he is at it). Then you use what needle you can source. That way you are sure that the seat will fit into your body without damaging anything.
Al

Jack
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 1:07 pm

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by Jack » Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:54 am

Morning Al, I have, hopefully, a solution in the works. We're currently working on installing a needle and seat. We've looked it over and can't come up with a reason it won't work. So, I'll let you know as soon as he gets it done, and I've tested it. Stay tuned!

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Sun Jan 13, 2019 3:56 pm

We are in hot stand-by........

F12MAC
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 4:29 pm
Location: canada

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by F12MAC » Sun Jan 13, 2019 6:04 pm

Speak for yourself,up here you know what is about to freeze over LOL

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Sun Jan 13, 2019 7:28 pm

Hello F12MAC, Does the F12 have anything to ding with Farmall? How far north of the border is your home? You Canadians do certainly know how to have winter. I spent time in North Dakota just below Winnipeg and yes you guys have to be tough to survive your winters. Ours are bad enough here in the mountain west of the US. On the bright side, throw another log on the fire and get some work done on the antique while you are not able to do anything else. What is your current priority and project?
Al

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Sun Jan 13, 2019 7:30 pm

Hello Pete, I reread your early posting and now know what your "F12MAC" is all about and it is not Farmall. Which size is your F12?
Al

F12MAC
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 4:29 pm
Location: canada

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by F12MAC » Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:10 am

Hi Al. We are 120 miles north east of Detroit
The F12 is 40hp and 36 inch wheeled touring built in Auburn Indiana,
In the early days Auburn had more car manufacturers then Detroit.
McIntyre had 5 factories at that time 4 of which are still being used.
Priority this winter is moving to a new house with bigger work area.
I will not have to go to any swap meets this year,finding stuff I forgot I had LOL
Cheers Pete

F12MAC
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 4:29 pm
Location: canada

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by F12MAC » Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:13 am

Jack sorry about the thread drift.
But it is nice to see traffic on this site for a change
Enjoyed talking to you by phone the other day
Agian best luck on the carb. Pete

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Mon Jan 14, 2019 7:41 am

Hello Pete,
How about you starting a F12MAC thread that will have a few pictures, and your requests for tips or advice to resolve any needed issues regarding your automobile. You never can tell when an idea may be shared that can help you along the way to restoring your F12. An active forum, here, is a great tool we just need to use it more!
Al

F12MAC
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 4:29 pm
Location: canada

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by F12MAC » Mon Jan 14, 2019 12:04 pm

Al look here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=868&hilit=McIntyre& ... f08c20db7e
We already discussed this. Cheers Pete

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Mon Jan 14, 2019 12:52 pm

Yup you are right. You still ought to start a thread here and post a picture or two. I sure could invigorate some of us into activity and get something done while we can't do anything else, do to cold and snow! Do you have any current work scopes in progress on your car?
Al

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Mon Jan 14, 2019 8:19 pm

Jack, Have you scouted out EBAY to look for a suitable needle and seat that could be modified for your carb.? There are all kinds, sizes, configurations and prices!
Al

Jack
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 1:07 pm

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by Jack » Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:01 pm

Howdy Al, I found one that is going to work, if all goes well. Found it in a local repair shop! Talked to an old carb guy ( actually he's younger than me, but he knows the old ('50's and '60's) carbs pretty well, and this one is hopefully just the ticket! We got along great! My son is building a "deer catcher" bumper for his pickup, so it might be a day or two...……. he forgot how important I am!

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Tue Jan 15, 2019 10:03 am

Looks like you have a plan. Does it look like you can keep the geometry correct between the float height and the new elevation of the replacement seat? That dimension and geometry is important to keep right so the carb. will function as it is supposed to, from my experience. Do you have any other side projects going on the Overland while you are working on the carb. problem?
Al

Jack
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 1:07 pm

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by Jack » Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:46 am

Morning Al, yes, the geometry of the float/valve is probably my biggest worry. The float arm is cast brass, and will bend, but I'm a bit leery of bending it. I did when I was attempting to get the leak to stop, but I was sweating! The instructions I've seen on the "D" states to have the float parallel, and set 1/32 above the adjusting needle. Not an easy thing to accomplish, but I did get it as close as I could, so hopefully it will be fairly close when I put this all back together. As for other projects on the Overland, not at this time. I want to get it to run, then take it to a BIG parking lot so I can learn how to drive it! It's similar to a Model T, so it might take me a couple of attempts to get comfortable with it. In the meantime, I have a '29 Model A I'm working on that was given to me by the original owner's granddaughter, who is 94! It is a very stock car, very few things have been messed with. I also have a '29 Model A engine I am rebuilding for a friend of mine. And then of course there is the ever present, "I'll get to that project one of these days". So, I have plenty to do. If you run out of things to do, I have a spare bedroom, you could come over for a week or so, and help me make some progress!

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Wed Jan 16, 2019 2:30 pm

Hello Jack, I thought that Overland cars had a sliding gear transaxle? That should make it a piece of cake to drive it. Do you have a picture of how the float arm is mounted? Is it just pinned or bolted? If it is bolted, you could shim to the height you need. If pinned in place, you may need to anneal the brass arm so it will tolerate a bit of "tweaking". You are right, anything cast, iron, aluminum and brass does not play well when attempts to bend. Annealing will soften it up a bit. I learned this lesson the hard way one time. I needed to straighten a cast aluminum floorboard, for one of my antique autos, thinking that cast aluminum would be forgiving. I was VERY wrong! About the time I was just starting to see some deflection and was about to smile at a job well done....Pop went the weasel. I had successfully broke a good floorboard right in half. My near smile immediately took a dark twist as I thought some very eloquent and bad things to myself! My advice, proceed carefully. My favorite car from early on was a 1929 Model A Ford roadster, very unrestored but a numbers matching car. What fun I had with that car for a few years driving it in "as is" condition.
Al

Jack
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 1:07 pm

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by Jack » Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:05 am

morning Al, the '11 has a sliding gear trans, but the '10 (and earlier) had a planetary trans. So, that's why I'm going to need a BIG parking lot to try it out! My first car was a '28 Model A Special Coupe. Still have it. Very nice car. Took me 15 years to restore it. No money, no time. Here's a before and after. I also have a "Johnny Cash" pickup that I drive all the time. Works great in the snow with chains on! I'm hoping to get the carb back today, can't wait to try it! The arm is bolted to the float, and the arm rides on a pin. I'm hoping I don't have to adjust it much. Yes, annealing slowly is good advice! I'll stay in touch.
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Copy of Snow on the pickup 008.jpg
model A's 017.jpg
model A's 017.jpg (46.81 KiB) Viewed 1210 times
Rear before.jpg
Rear before.jpg (37.51 KiB) Viewed 1210 times

alsfarms
Posts: 316
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:29 pm
Location: Deseret, Utah

Re: 1910 Overland restoration

Post by alsfarms » Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:33 am

hmmm, considering what you told me about the float and arm. You could likely change the position of the float to the arm by shimming or some other method rather than even trying to flex the arm in order to get the geometry your need for proper function. That is my tip or thought on this subject. Now for the Model A talk. You have a very nice sport coupe. Is the snowbound "A" truck a current picture from this year? If so I wish we had some of your snow!
Al

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