Rust Stabilization

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Rust Stabilization

Post by MochetVelo » Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:29 pm

Originality has become acceptable in the old car world in the past several years. A period paint job is worth preserving, even with some rust. It's certainly better than a lame "color match" that doesn't match. There are several methods to stabilize body rust without stripping or priming. The idea is to starve the rust from contact with moisture and oxygen, but with no discoloration such as you would get with with "rust converter" products. Here are a few I suggest:

A home-brew 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and lacquer thinner or acetone. Apply with brush, being careful not to strip off paint. The idea is that the solvent will evaporate before dissolving any finish. Original paint, before the mid-twenties, should not be soluble in lacquer thinner.

Gibbs Oil is used by gun owners to prevent rust on bare metal. It can work on cars, too.

WD-40 Corrosion Inhibitor
is a newer product that sprays on. It leaves a slightly tacky coating, but can be washed off if desired. You might prefer to apply this with a brush or cloth for more control. ... inhibitor/

Penetrol, an oil-base paint flow-out additive, can be applied directly to the affected area with a brush. You can get it at home centers and paint stores. [By the way, this product smooths out oil-base paint jobs, too.]


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