Rebuild Improvements for Reliability 1909 Locomobile

[alsfarms]

Who has a "Tip" of "Advice" on a GOOD high build primer for filling the pits you see above?
Al

[F12MAC]

AL. All paint companies have their version of high built primers.I always recommend to stay with one companies products from start to finish,then if you have a problem there is not the finger pointing game. On the parts you showed I would first use a glazing type body fill goes on easy and more inportantly sands a lot easier than normal body filler,to fill the pitts then high prime. If you fill the Pitts with high build,you also build up the surrounding area. Hope this helps
FYI I use the Glasurit paint system,last 30 odd years. Cheers pete

[MochetVelo]

I like Evercoat Slick-Sand and Eastwood Contour Polyester Primer-Surfacer. Both products have a heavy build and sand easily without clogging sandpaper. I finish with 400 grit paper before applying the top coat.

Phil

[alsfarms]

Here is my "Tip" for the day. (Not Locomobile related). It is my wish for everyone to have a great Holiday Season, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Years Party! It is good to be back, thanks Webmaster for "fixing" what was broken so we can once again access the HCCA forums. I will share a couple of updates over the next few days....after Christmas, regarding the Locomobile project.
Al

[alsfarms]

I have a few moments to share an update on the "torque Spring" assembly for the Locomobile. I was surprised that I was able to remove the main bolt without needing to resort to a application of a heat wrench, (torch), it did take lots of penetrating oil and gentle nudging with a box end wrench. I also took needed measurements so I can replicate the main bolt and have this unit complete for my use. Here are a couple of pictures.

[alsfarms]

Here is a picture of the grease fitting that I will need to machine for greasing the torque spring main bolt.

[alsfarms]

I have had some struggles with access and making new posts, I hope a resolution is in hand now as I am able to update to this forum. I thought I would start with a "TIP" on how to identify wheel and rim parts and in this case particularly Firestone. Be cautious as you sandblast of dip your wheel iron so you do not remove the original factory markings that tell you exactly what you have. In the case of my Locomobile, it was bought new with Firestone rim hardware. (My new rewooded wheels still have the Firestone rims and hardware). I will post a couple of pictures so you can see what to look for. The first picture will be of the Firestone MFG. name as stamped onto the fello band.
Al

[alsfarms]

Here is the second picture which will show you what to look for regarding tire size that is required for this size fellow band. Another "TIP", these rim pieces come in several sizes for each diameter. For safety purposes, it is important to use all compatible Firestone rim hardware for the size of tire specified. More on that subject if requested.
Al

[alsfarms]

One last "TIP" for today, if you see the set of numbers, as shown above, and are confused as to what they mean, in this case 34 x 4-1/2. To determine diameter double the second number and subtract from the first. So, 4-1/2 plus 4-1/2 equals 9. Subtract 9 from 34 which equals 25".
Al

[alsfarms]

I will recap a posting I made on December 26 above. It appears that the pictures are tangled up with the website issue that has been problematic. I will post a picture of a rough sketch of the torque spring center load bearing main bolt. My sketch is rough but does contain the dimensions I need in order to machine a new bolt. I was lucky to be able to coax out the original main bolt without using the heat wrench (torch). Here is my sketch of the torque spring main bolt. My "TIP" of the day, if anyone else needs a new torque spring main bolt, you are welcome to use this sketch and build one.
Al

[alsfarms]

Here is a picture of the torque spring assembly with a new 5/8" grade 8 donor bolt that will be machined to the specifications shown above.
Al

[alsfarms]

"TIP" of the day, anything is possible and that goes for machining parts needed for our restorations. A case in point. When I started restoring the Locomobile Model L, I counted all the missing pinch top grease fittings and it was nearly every one of them. I proceeded to machine the bases out of 4140L so they would be tough. I them made a modification, internally, to facilitate installing a conventional grease zerk under the brass cap, to make for positive greasing and to minimize the grease mess of the original pinch top grease fitting. Lastly I machined the brass "pinch top" but as you notice, I have one more machine process to form the pinch top.
Al

[alsfarms]

Here is a picture of the inside of the steel base of the machined grease fittings. Excuse the rough finish, I was in a bit of a hurry on this one. "TIP" of the day, don't hurry when machining!
Al

[alsfarms]

"TIP" for the day. Our cars also have a significant story to tell. It is actually quite important that we, as modern caretakers, keep as much of the story alive as possible as it relates to our antique automobiles, (it is fun also to know history and share with others). I happen to know the history of my Locomobile and will share a bit here as a "TIP" and encouragement for all of us to keep a history that can stay with our antique automobiles. Attached is a picture of the original and first automobile dealership, in our side of the county, built by my Great-Grand-Dad shortly after the turn of the last century. My Locomobile sat behind this building and 100' from my house for probably 30 years after it was retired. (More story later) This shop is just around the corner from my home, (also built by my Great-Grand-Dad). It must have been very convenient for my Great-Grand-Dad to walk to work! My Great-Grand-Dad also ran a variety store, (they all were back in the day) an early show house, farms and a freight service. Here is a picture "TIP" of the day to encourage us all to do a better job keeping a history on our automobiles. If you look closely, you can almost make out the words, "Allen", "Jeffery" and "Kissell" which were the makes that he sold new along with many other makes that he sold as "Used".
Al

[alsfarms]

"TIP" of the day. Try to do a little each day. I try to do that. While I have been bogged down with other responsibilities I have systematically had restoration work completed on the lamps for the Locomobile. I still need to do some work on the Rushmore headlamps and think I have a suitable remedy for a weakness in one of the headlamps. More on that later. Today I will show you a few pictures of some nice work completed by Brintons Brass Works on my Locomobile script tail lamp.
Al
Picture 1

[alsfarms]

Picture 2

[alsfarms]

Picture 3
Over look the dust.....
I have these lamps on display until they get hung on the Locomobile for good. I am very happy with the craftsmanship put into this lamp by Brintons.
Al

[alsfarms]

On the subject of lights and lighting. Another "TIP" of the day is that we all need to consider the safety our antique automobiles need to have on these modern road and driving conditions we enjoy. The current Gazette has a very nice article on the subject of LED lighting upgrades. I have read that article a couple of times and will put some serious thought into some sort of improvement for this Locomobile and a couple of other antique automobiles I own.
Al

[alsfarms]

I am working on the windshield assembly for installation on the Locomobile. As this automobile is a Toy Tonneau with a cowling, the windshield will be a slant back on the lower section then up straight vertical. I need a "TIP" or two on how best to anchor the wood windshield base to the fire wall then how is best to mount the support rod. Lastly, I need a "TIP" or reference to a good source for the brass windshield frames that can be made to fit my hinges and match the heights needed to look correct in proportion both the bottom section and the top section. I will post a picture of the hinges shortly.
Al