I am involved with a seriously big restoration on a 1909 Locomobile Model L Toy or Baby Tonneau. Please see the attached factory picture of the car as it would have been when new. I will be bringing up issues that I have had to deal with along the way as well as resolutions to those problems. I may also ask for your input on issues that I do not have a good remedy for as yet.
Al
Here is a couple of pictures that show a "before" and a "during" picture of the rebuild of the Locomobile engine. The note here is I chose to use a Delco Dual spark distributor in place of the Bosch DU4 mag that was on the engine when I purchased it. Originally, this 1909 Locomobile engine was run with a low tension Bosch magneto and a make and break system of ignition. I do not have any of the parts for the original make and break system but would like to acquire those pieces or patterns to keep with the car. The purpose for the Delco unit is to provide a very reliable two spark ignition system to provide for a good running engine. If anyone here has experience "TIPS" or "ADVICE", that I should be aware of, regarding the Delco two spark distributor, please share a post.
Al
Hey Al,
Your engine work is very impressive.
As far as your dual spark distributor, I have no experience.
I'm running the Bosch DU4 high tension magneto.
I didn't have any of the Remy low tension ignition magneto parts.
I posted on another thread that I gutted & used the Remy coil box & switch.
A plus is that there was a button on it for instant start that I used for my starter button.
I need a "TIP" or ADVICE". I scrounged for nearly 40 years to locate and procure a full set of the proper cast brass hubcaps for the Locomobile. A couple of them are going to need some work to make them usable. Here is a picture of the first of the caps that will need work. Note that it has been bumped in the area of the 8 octagon sides. It is usable, I suppose, but it will bother me to install in on my car damaged. The tip or advice, I need, is how much heat will be required in order to soften (anneal) the brass so it can be worked. Note also that this cap is nickle plated. The plating will be removed as my car is brass and not nickle. Please share your thoughts...
Al
Several years ago the Gazette ran an article, I believe by Chris Figge, on how to make new Locomobile hubcaps.
Thanks for the posting. I know that Chris Figg was into building Bakelite radiator caps, (I remember that write-up) but do not recall any talk of hub cap reproduction. I will check out the Gazette index and see if I missed something. Speaking of missing, I still have not received my March/April Gazette.
Al
Who has the ability to roll a bead? I will be needing to have the rear fenders built for the Locomobile. I need a good "Tip" on a good sheet metal shop.
Al
I've just been helping to proofread the next Gazette. It will have a display ad for Hildebran Designs, that does custom castings. One of the objects in their ad is a Locomobile hubcap. This is not an endorsement; I'd never heard of them before today.
Thanks for your watchful eye, I have already been in touch with that small investment casting business. The Locomobile caps they show is from an earlier series Locomobile and is not the same as I need. I may consider having a new one or two recast.
Al
Here is a picture or two of the Locomobile script lights now ready for installation. The "TIP" here is to pay attention and work with what you can to arrive at the goal you set. The goal I had was to have a full set of proper Locomobile script Solar side lights and tail light. I researched to determine the Solar Model light that was correct and used originally on Locomobile in 1909. I did find a few restorable Solar 933 lights but not script. Next, with patience, I was able to hunt for several years and bought several ratty Solar 933's but with decent Locomobile script bonnets on top. I did contact a fellow in northern Calif. that described how he could put all the parts together and in the end I would have nice Locomobile script Solar 933 side lights. I will share the name of the shop who did this work for me to anyone that asks. Solar lamps are a very nice high quality lamp, I am impressed with the finished lights.
Al
Who has "Tips" or Advice" or plans/parts for building a spark plug lead loom (or in my case two of them one for each side of the engine)? Please see a round brass unit that is found on the engine of an early Simplex.
Al
Has any one seen the support brackets for the spark plug wiring loom made out of steel?
Al
Update on the Locomobile project. I now have the fully rebuilt engine back at home and in my shop. I need to complete a few little items as I work towards setting the engine in the chassis. One item is to build the spark plug wiring loom and support brackets. I decided to only run one loom across the top of the engine, even though I am running a two spark plug ignition system. I also need to monkey around with the carburetor. It is currently running with a 1930's Carter BB-1. I have located a better match which is a Carter BB-1 289SD. Has anyone here got any set-up tips or experience specifically with the 289SD BB-1? If you have any pointers or thoughts on a wiring loom, post a note. The attached picture shows the engine on first start and run. That first run was an honest to goodness "RUSH"!
Al
oops, that posted picture is just before the first start and run. If you notice, the engine would not run so good with no carb. in place!
Here is a question for this group. This 1909 Locomobile utilizes a "full floating" rear axle design. That means the actual rear axle is held in place simply with the rear hubcap. On this car, as well as others that use a full floating rear axles, can have an issue with oil leaking out of the hubcap. What method has been employed by you owners to resolve this problem while allowing you to snug the cap tight enough that you do not loose the hubcap? The Locomobile does use a nice HEAVY cast brass hubcap with an internal rib that contacts the axles to hold in in place. The first attached picture shows the inside of a rear hubcap with the rib to contact the axle, the second picture shows the inside of a front hubcap with no rib, (doesn't need one). Lastly, the actual wheel hub has no provision or shoulder for the hubcap to mate up against. The hubcaps are fine threaded to allow for a good degree of torque to be applied to keep it on the car and doing its job. Share your thoughts.
Al