I am after a tip or a bit of advice regarding the building of brackets to attach a similar version of ht spark wiring looms for my project. Take a look at the pictures and share your thoughts. What are the thoughts for a good choice of wood to build these loom pieces from?
Al
While working on the design for the spark plug wiring loom, I am also working on getting my carburetor issue resolved. Here, I will post a few pictures of the evolution of the carburetors that my engine has seen. The first is the original all brass Locomobile carburetor. Second, is an early series all cast iron carter BB-1 (from what i can determine is a bit undersized for my engine which is about 300 CID). Third is a Zenith purchased as it is NOS and is sized properly for my engine, (sadly, this carburetor is physically larger than will fit into my available space, I guess it will be used for another project). Fourth, is the current carburetor which is the largest BB-1 (289 SD) and is sized properly for the Locomobile. This 289 SD is the current carburetor that I will be rebuilding and installing on the Locomobile. I am going to use a Daytona Parts Company flat faced needle and seat, I will report back on how that works out.
Al
Have you tried Stan Howe concerning your carburetor search?
Phil
Hello Phil, Yes I have. Stan is quite knowledgeable.
Al
I am looking for tips and advice from you Horseless carriage owners who run cars that have a pressurized fuel delivery system.I will post a picture of the hand pressure pump that will be used to build pressure in the gastank, generally 2 PSI, to start the car. My question is for a general opinion as to where is the best place to locate this pump and why. The Locomobile is a right hand steering and a hand crank only car for reference. To start, I am guessing to be in the drivers seat to set the ignition in the start position, set the spark and throttle and build the suggested 2 PSI in the fuel tank before the attempt to crank start. (All this action would be from the drivers seat before cranking). I am thinking, to mount the hand pump, on the right hand side of the body in reach of the driver, (for convenience from the seat or standing on the side of the car). Share your thoughts and rationale.
Al
Next in line, with the above shown manual fuel pressure air pump, is the dash pressure gauge. This gauge is in place so you can determine if you have enough pressure, (2 lbs.) to move the fuel to the carburetor and not to much pressure to pop the tank. Here is a picture of the Locomobile dash air gauge. Tips or Advice is solicited at this point. I am making a guess that 1/4" tubing is large enough to carry the air pressure to the tank. Do you folks here agree?
Al
Another feature in an early fuel delivery system that is based on being pressurized is a pressure regulator valve. The attached images show the unit I will be using. It pulls compression pressure from an engine cylinder then has provision to regulate the pressure down to the specified 2 PSI. This unit also has provision for a cooling chamber to reduce the temperature of the compressed air from a cylinder before being pushed in to the fuel delivery system. This circuit pulls a source of cooling water from the automobile radiator cooling system. The unit also has provision to prime the cylinder with gasoline as an aid in starting a cold engine. This unit is a novel bit of early engineering to pressure feed fuel to the carb. If anyone has practical experience setting up one of these systems, I would be ready for your "Tips and Advice", (and experience).
Wow! That's pretty wild innovation for 110 years ago! Impressive.
I have just determined that the threads on the bottom of this manual hand pump are not BSPP as I had originally thought. I am going to try an SAE fine threaded bolt and verify just what thread I have as I would sooner use a factory fitting before I break down and custom build a threaded brass hex bushing. Note that the seal is not with the threads, in this application, but is sealed with a gasket in the bottom of the female threads and against a gasket surface on the end of the mating male fitting.
Al
I have another problematic obsolete fitting that I will need to modify or fabricate new. I will attach a few pictures and describe my problem. First is the male threads on the back side of the Locomobile air gauge. It is a straight thread that is sealed with a gasket in the bottom of the matching female thread. the picture shows the back side of the gauge and the male straight thread fitting with the needed Tee male flare fitting.
Al
Next picture is showing the TEE fitting in place, no typical fitting is available, that I can find, that is straight threaded and seals with a gasket. This Tee fitting is manufactured with a fine 1/4" FNPT and will not work in this application, as is.
Al
Last picture shows the first stage of a modification to bore out the existing 1/4" FNPT and prepare the TEE for a custom machined female threaded bushing to be soldered in place to allow this fitting to be used in this particular application. I will be happy to be able to install the tubing through the Air Pressure gauge.
Al
While being busy messing with the fittings needed to install the fuel delivery pressure system in the Locomobile, I will show a literary acquisition that will be most helpful to my ongoing project. The attached image shows an original 1909 Locomobile Instruction Book. This handbook covers both the Model 30 and 40. The Locomobile Book, as seen in many places on the internet, is a nice piece of literature, but that book is used to promote sales not service and repair of the vehicle. Much very good information is available in this Instruction Book. I will try to post a few of the page, from this Handbook as the project moves along.
Al
The pressurized fuel delivery system, used on the Locomobile, requires the use of two 1/4" brass check valves. One is used to allow the manual pump to pull outside air into the pump barrel, that check valve #1 is open. The second check valve #2 is used to close and stop the pressure flow from the fuel tank while the manual pump is pulling in fresh air. Then when the pump handle is pushed down the #1 check valve closes and stops the air flow back to atmosphere and the second check valve #2 opens to allow the pressure to be pumped into the tank. This will work nicely, but, I need to open up the check valves and replace the stiff springs with one that will cycle in a much lower working PSI. More on that later. Here are the check valves.
Al
Here is the 1/4 inch brass check valve opened up. You can see the SS ball that controls the flow, the tension spring is in the middle and the opposite end housing. I need to locate a lighter tension spring for my 2 PSI application.